June 2017. Climb Urus, Ishinca, and Pisco – a phenomenal hiking and easy climbing tour on beautiful glaciated peaks in the Cordillera Blanca, Huaraz, Peru.
Our first climb is Urus Este, ascending the east ridge to its 5,420m summit, a fantastic peak for acclimatization as well as for refreshing and/or learning the skills you need for glacier travel. Ishinca follows, offering a higher summit (5,530m) and a slightly steeper climb. These two are great predecessors to Pisco 5,752m, the grand finale. The Normal Route on South-West ridge is frequently climbed in reason of its moderate difficulty and its beauty and it is also very popular amongst climbers to acclimatize for a 6000m or more technical ascents.
– Spend more nights in a mountain hut allowing a good journey to be made and early start to complete a long tour.
– Are technically straightforward mountain, but one which requires stamina and determination to cope with long arduous days.
– Emergency rescue facilities in the mountains are very limited and you need to be able to deal with demanding conditions and basic facilities.
Duration: 16 days from home to home.
Dates 2017: 3 june – 18 june.
Minimum level required: level 2 in mountaineering levels - fitness level 3.
Groups: 4 persons
Cost: Euro 2600 per person.
the cost include: services of an European Mountain Guide and an Peruvian Mountain Guide, local transport as per program, lodging and tents fees, full board in the mountain except lunches and evening meals in town, local mules, group equipment, first aid kit for both the guide and yourself. The guide will book all Hotel as per program – you pay for these direct as we we go along.
The cost not include: Personal equipment, lunches, snacks and drinks, International flights, airport tax and entry visa (where necessary), holiday Insurance (must include cancellation), Medivac (Medical & Emergency Evacuation) Insurance, telephone, any extra days waiting for weather and anything not specified.
Trip meeting point: Lima Airport.
Local Airport: Jorge Chavez Airport, Lima Peru.
Arrive in Lima Airport. The group will be met at the airport, to arrive in time for the Evening, taken to the bus station, at 10.30pm first class bus to Huaraz (8hours). Night in the bus.
Arrive in Huaraz – acclimatisation day in the town. Arrive in Huaraz at 6.00 am, from bus station transfer to hotel. Huaraz, a bustling town of 80 thousand inhabitants, is our Andean base. The valley it sits in is known as the ‘Callejon de Huaylas’. This is flanked to the east by the Cordillera Blanca, the mountain range with the highest concentration of peaks over 6,000m outside the Himalayas. Night in Hotel
Hatun Machay peak 4760m – acclimatisation day. It is a mystic rock forest formed by the erosion of time and one of the most impressive geological attractions of the region. Hatun Machay – which in Quechua language means Big Cave – is a mere 1 ½ hours from Huaraz, situated in the Cordillera Negra (Black Mountain Range) at an altitude of 4290m. From there walk up to the Peak in 2.00 hours. In afternoon return to Huaraz. Night in hotel
Laguna Churup 4500m – acclimatisation day. Day hike to the turquoise waters of Laguna Churup (4,500m). Approximately 6 hours round trip. A short colectivo ride to Llupa, and then hike to Pitec (1 hour) and you are at the start of one of the best day hikes from Huaraz – Laguna Churup. This sparkling Andean Lake, nestling at the foot of the an imposing glacier, is the perfect acclimatisation hike with great views, a lovely path and even a bit of fun chain scrambling at the end. Return to Huaraz. Night in Hotel
Quebrada Llaca, Vallunaraju glacier 5000m – acclimatisation day. We Huaraz early and drive to the end of Quebrada Llaca. From here walk up to Vallunaraju glacier in 4 – 5 hours. Return to Huaraz. Night in hotel
Huaraz rest day. Relaxing day and preparing for ours summits. Night in hotel.
Huaraz – Ishinca hut 4405m. Pack your bags! Drive up to the small mountain village of Pashpa where the donkeys get loaded and your group begins the 12km hike to the head of the Ishinca Valley. In the afternoon rest in the hut. Night in the hut
Urus este 5420m – Ishinca hut. Urus Summit Day! Your first alpine start has you leaving camp by 1am. Work your way up the steep moraine to the toe of the glacier where you’ll put on crampons, harnesses, and rope up. Weave your way to the summit, usually arriving around 7am. Return down to Ishinca hut for the lunch. Rest. Night in the hut
Ishinca 5530m – Ishinca hut. Ishinca Summit Day! Another Alpine start – 12 midnight waking and leaving by 1am. Ishinca’s summit push is about 4 hours longer then Urus’. You’ll pick your way through the delicate Andean tundra and gain the glacier around sunrise. Once on the glacier, wind your way through some impressive crevasses and up to the high saddle, then follow a summit ridge to the very top. Estimated summit time is 8am and return to hut by 12 midday. Rest. Night in hut
Ishinca hut – Huaraz. Sleep in at last and wake to a delicious breakfast before packing up equipment and loading the donkeys for the return to Huaraz. Once there, you’ll check into your hotel for quite possibly the best shower of your life. Dinner that night is a celebration banquet. Night in hotel.
Huaraz rest day. Relaxing day and preparing for ours summits. Night in hotel.
Huaraz – Peru/Pisco hut 4696m. We’ll depart Huaraz and head north. From the village of Yungay, we’ll turn off towards the Llanganuco gulley. Driving through this narrow canyon, we can see the striking north face of Huascaran Norte and the south face of Huandoy Sur, as well as the pretty turquoise lakes of Chinancocha and Orconcocha. Our vehicle will drop us off at a spot known as Cebollapampa (12,900 ft./3,931m), where we’ll set out on foot towards the Pisco Oeste Base Camp, again with the assistance of donkeys and pack animals to carry our heavy equipment and provisions. The walk to the Peru-Pisco Hut (15,407 ft./4,696m) takes an average of three hours. Night in the hut.
Pisco 5752m – Huaraz. We’ll start the ascent of Pisco Oeste at 00 a.m. We’ll cross a moraine and then descend a rocky glacier to reach the moraine situated on the other side. From here, the path climbs steeply to a small, sandy plain where We’ll cross rock slabs up to the toe of the glacier (16,811 ft./ 5,124m). From the point where the glacier starts, we’ll be climbing moderately sloped snow fields until we reach the saddle separating Huandoy Este from Pisco Oeste (17,500 ft./ 5,334m). We’ll follow the left side of the southwestern ridge until we meet a steep slope (165 feet at 50°). Once past this obstacle, the glacier widens and flattens out. After crossing several crevasses, we’ll reach the summit arête, by which we’ll access the domed summit (18,872 ft./ 5,752m), with an incredible 360° view over such famous mountains. This fantastic view is considered by many climbers to be the best in the range. We’ll descend to Peru/Pisco Hut and from here via Cebollapampa to Huaraz. Night in hotel.
Huaraz – Bus to Lima in the night. Last minute shopping for family and friends before departing for Lima at 10pm. Night in the bus.
Lima Tour ends. arriving at the Lima by 6am. After the breakfast tour ends Lima. In the afternoon transfer to Airport for the flight home
Altitude and Acclimatisation program
For information, read Altitude and Acclimatisation Program.
For this trip you must have medical evacuation insurance. We strongly recommend the purchase of trip cancellation and travel insurance. Travel insurance must provide coverage for trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delay. Click on “Mountain Insurance” for more details.
Payment, Cancellation and Refund
To register for this trip please contact us. Please insure your expedition against cancellation for medical and/or personal reasons.